North Of New England, Quebec Offers A Maple Leaf Autumn

By Gina Carbone

They gave us hockey. The Mounties. Jim Carrey. Celine Dion. “Eh.” Yes, our neighbors to the north have been generous. And as summer fades into fall, Canadians are ready to help again—by giving us respite from the crowds of leaf-peepers who flock to New England.

There’s a reason Canada’s flag is one big maple leaf: The place is ripe for autumn peeping. With a national climate focused on hassle-free domestic travel, it’s easy to forget the fresh adventures available just an apple’s throw from the border. One place worth a look-see is the bucolic region of Quebec called the Eastern Townships (Cantons-del-l’Est) blanketing the U.S. border at Vermont, New Hamp-shire and Maine.

The Townships are only an hour from Montreal and six hours from Manhattan, yet a welcome world away in culture and atmosphere. The predominant language used in the tranquil villages is French, though English is understood, and the Victorian architecture comes by way of New England Loyalists who sided with the British during the American Revolution and fled to Canada for refuge. Surrounded by unspoiled lakes, mountains, parks and trails, the Townships seem tailor-made for outdoorsy explorers; but there are also picturesque villages, spas, wine routes, fine cuisine and fantasy lodgings for sophisticated travelers who want country-mouse freedom without giving up city-mouse style.

If your game plan includes raising your heart rate (with a view), there are several options, including a hike at Au Diable Vert (Green Devil), a mountain facility, camp and auberge (hotel) in Glen Sutton. Located right across the Vermont border in the heart of the Appalachian mountains, this 200-acre property overlooks the Missisiquoi River Valley between the Mount Sut-ton range and the Green Mountains. Au Diable Vert trails link up with a wider network of trails in the Natural Environment Park of Sutton and Estrie. Further north, near Sherbrooke, is the parc national du Mont-Orford, featuring more than 100 km of trails for bird lovers, cyclists and skiers.

To really make your friends back home jealous, try horseback riding through trails strewn with autumn leaves. Jacques Robidas, owner of Les Randonnées Jacques Robidas in North Hatley, specializes in organizing outdoor activities like horseback riding and carriage rides.

On the pampering front, it may seem strange to find a spa in the middle of this country setting, but in fact you’ll find one of the very best in the Townships. Luxurious Spa Eastman was included in the book 100 Best Spas in the World by Bernard Burt and

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Pamela Lechtman. With 44 rooms, nine pavilions and some 10 miles of trails on 315 acres, this place is much more than a spa within a hotel. Try a massage followed by a healthy vegetarian meal and a walk on the trails, and pat yourself on the back for being so good.

If food matters to you, you’re in luck. This area is packed with world-renowned chefs who have chosen to ditch the city scene in favor of peace, nature and the sound of visiting tourists moaning “oh my heaven, this is delicious.” For example, Manoir Hovey (Hovey Manor) in North Hatley is celebrated for its innovative cuisine and extensive wine list, which earned it the 2003 Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine.

Speaking of wine, no trip to the Townships would be complete without a tour of local vineyards. Dunham’s vignoble de l’Orpailleur, one of Quebec’s oldest and most highly regarded wineries, offers wine tours, tastings, an economuseum devoted to the history of Quebec wine-growing and an on-site restaurant showcasing wines from the property and regional food specialties. Don’t leave without trying its amazing ice wine.

At the end of the day, the Townships have a number of bed and breakfasts, hotels and inns that will cater to the whims of everyone in your party. The rooms at the Auberge La Raveaudiere in North Hatley feature no televisions, no radios and no phones (unless you need one), but plenty of luxury in a warm, sophisticated atmosphere. On the list of the innkeepers’ favorite activities in the area: enjoying the craft foods made by the monks of the nearby Abbaye de St-Benoit-du-Lac.

If you’re in the Georgeville area—and it’s recommended that you be—schedule a night of exquisite cuisine and company at the idyllic Auberge Georgeville. Prepare to be floored by this little slice of heaven, the oldest continually operating hotel in Canada. The stately pink and white Victorian inn features charming suites with thoughtful design touches, as well as modern amenities, including a complete entertainment center. Once you’ve enjoyed complimentary sherry in the sitting room and afternoon tea and sweets, rest your bones outside on a hammock or one of the wicker chairs on the wrap-around porch ... perfect—or, as French-Canadians say, parfait.

Once you’ve spent an autumn weekend exploring the natural beauty of the Townships, it’s hard to say au revoir. But never fear—you’ll be welcomed back to this secret playground any time. Just be sure to use the time in between to work on your French.